March 24, 2002

    The ship passed the southern tip of Sri Lanka around 9am. The City of Galle could be seen afar. Without reasons, we had the idea of Sri Lanka as a mountainous island. In reality, however, it was a fairly flat huge island. We could see afar waves breaking at the ragged seashore, and watch fishing boats. We walked about half an hour but Shig kept carrying his camera and took pictures of the seashore and boats from time to time.

    During the lunch, we saw through the window more than ten dolphins swimming near our ship with their fins above the surface. As they swam away from the ship they disappeared within seconds.

    It was an "Informal" evening. Shig wore a regular business suit with a tie and Sue wore grey pant suit with bluish scarf. We dined with a handsome couple of Herb & Leah Karp. Leah-san said she visited Japan back in 1957 for 2 months with many good memories with Japanese friends. Leah-san must have been like an actress 45 years ago and must have got a lot of attention in Japan still very poor under the conversion rate of $ = Yen 360. Her memories back then seemed to have made her pro-Japan ever since, and she still remembered many Japanese words.

    While we were eating, the ship tilted dangerously. Stacked up dishes slipped onto the floor and broke with big alarming noises. Waiters were eager to hold bottles and piled up dishes. The captain broadcast that there was something wrong with the rudder. It was lucky that the trouble occurred in the open sea rather than in a narrow river.

    Both Sue and Shig took lamb and rice. After the dinner, we enjoyed the show by singers and dancers of The Peter Grey Terhune Cast.

 9am頃船はSri Lankaの南端をかすめてインド大陸南端に進路をとった。南端の町Galleが遠くに見えた。Sri Lankaはなぜか山がちな島を想像していたのだが、かなり平らな巨大な島だった。Sri Lankaの荒磯に白波が砕けるのを遥かに眺めて、伊豆城ケ崎の荒磯を思い出した。アウトリガの漁船のすぐそばを船が通った時、乗っていた半裸の漁師数人と手を振り交わした。30分ほど散歩したのだが、重悳はカメラを手放さず、岸や漁船の写真をとった。


 Informalの日で、重悳は普通のビジネススーツにネクタイ、スミヱは灰色のパンツスーツに青系統のスカーフとした。二人揃ってカッコいいHerb & Leah Karp夫妻と一緒に食事した。Leahさんは1957年に2ヶ月ほど日本を訪れ、日本の友達との沢山の良い思いでがあると言った。45年前に彼女は女優のようだったと想像できるし、もてたに違いない。$ = \360時代の貧しい日本では別世界の人のように輝いて見えたに違いない。その時の記憶が以来彼女を日本びいきにしているようで、いまでも多くの日本語を覚えている。再婚35周年記念の旅行だということだった。我々は結婚38年だと言ったら最初の結婚かと確認された。


 重悳もスミヱもライスを添えたラムを食べた。食後はThe Peter Grey Terhune Castの歌とダンスのショーを楽しんだ。

March 25, 2002

    As the day broke, the ship was in the bay of Cochin, India. Cochin was found similar in geography to San Francisco in the sense that it had a vast inland sea. The ship docked at a pier in a man-made Willington Island, made of dredged up sludge. The ship was welcomed by an elephant, a band of several Indian musicians, and a group of Indian girls in uniform saris holding candles in two rows. Many passengers went off in order to fly to Taj Mahal. We disembarked after that at 8:30am for a bus tour to historical Cochin, which was first founded by Portuguese, then taken by Dutch and finally by Britain. In the Fort Cochin at the mouth of the bay, we visited St. Francis Church, the first church in India where Vasco da Gama was buried for 14 years before the body was sent back to Portugal. Watching the snake dance by the roadside, we walked for several minutes to the northern most beach where huge fishing nets called Chinese fishing nets were lowered and pulled up by several men. There were many kinds of fish displayed for sales in a tent shop.

    Then we visited a town of Mattanchery. A mansion called "Dutch Palace" was originally built in 1555 by Portuguese for the local sultan, Cochin Raja, but expanded by Dutch. Then we walked through Jewish Streets, where Indians had replaced Jews to operate souvenir shops, since Jews left to participate in founding of Israel. Then we visited Jewish Synagogue at the end of the street, where about one thousand sheets of hand-painted ceramic tiles imported from China filled the floor. The synagogue was said to have only five Jewish families these days. Sue found near-by a sign of "Spice Market" and bought some spices much cheaper than in Japan.

    Then we took a boat from Mattanchery to cruise near Taj Malabar Hotel and Harbor Guest House, to watch Chinese fishing nets again from the sea, and saw Gundu Island where thatched cottages were. Then we watched Bollghatty Palace Hotel from the sea. Looking afar at the modern city of Ernakulam, we returned to the ship.

    After we took lunch in the ship, we intended to take a cab to the new town Ernakulam, but gave it up when we found that it was Monday today and the museum in the city was closed, and that there were almost nothing else to see. But Shig went out of the ship anyway to walk around the pier and out of the pier in the near-by town, to find nothing interesting.

    We noticed that we didn't see miserable poverty population which we saw in the Central India. We wondered what made the difference.

    It was a "casual" evening. We dined with Lory & Roanne again and arts & crafts instructors Enid and Carole both from Toronto. Both Shig and Sue took lamb and curry. The show after the dinner was traditional local Kerala dance, which we found more cultural assets than entertainment. Acting was as symbolic as that in No play. It was difficult to understand a traditional art.

 夜が明けると船はインドのCochin湾に居た。Cochinは地形的にSan Franciscoに似ている。広大な内海を持っているからだ。船は浚渫土砂で作られた人工島Willington島の波止場に接岸した。船を出迎えてくれたのは、象1頭、数人のインド音楽師、お揃いのサリを来て蝋燭を手にした2列の少女たちだった。多くの乗客がTaj Mahalに飛ぶために下船して行った。我々はその後8:30amに下船して歴史的なCochinを探訪するバスツアに乗った。Cochinは最初にVasco da Gamaを初めとするポルトガル人が拓き、次いでオランダ人が掌握し、最後に英国人が支配した。Fort Cochinという古い街では、1498年に初めてインドを訪れた欧人Vasco da Gamaの墓所があるインドで最初の教会St. Francis教会を訪れた。彼の遺体はここに14年間眠った後にポルトガルに送られた。蛇使いを見ながら数分歩いて北端の海辺に出た。Chinese fishing netsと呼ばれる魚とりの網が幾つかあった。諏訪湖でも見られる魚網をもっと大きくしたものだ。木製クレインの先に結んだ四角の網を底に沈めておいて頃合を見計らって数人がかりで人力でクレーンを持ち上げる仕掛けだ。近くには取れたばかりの魚がテントの魚屋の店先に並んでいた。

 それからバスはMattancheryという町に行った。Dutch Palaceと呼ばれる邸宅は、ポルトガル人が最初に1555年に建設して当地のサルタンCochin Rajaに贈ったもので、後年オランダ人が増築した。今はMuseumになっている。Jewish Streetという名のショッピング街を歩いた。昔はユダヤ人が多く住んだそうで、ユダヤ人墓地もある。その後ユダヤ人はイスラエル建国のために去って、今はインド人が商売をしている。その奥にあるユダヤ教のSynagogueを訪れた。今は信者が5家族しか居ないという。およそ千枚の手書き陶器のタイルが敷きつめてあった。スミヱがSpice Marketというサインを近くに見つけ、Saffronなどのスパイスを日本より遥かに安く購入した。

 Mattancheryから観光船に乗った。Cochinで一番のTaj MalabarホテルとHarbor Guest Houseを過ぎ、Chinese fishing netsを再び今度は海から見た。昔ながらの茅葺小屋があるGundu島を過ぎ、オランダ人が1744年に開いたというBollghatty Palace Hotelを海から見た。Cochinの近代都市であるErnakulamを遠くに見て船に戻った。



 今日はCasualの日だった。一緒に夕食したのは再びLory & Roanneと、新たにArts and Craftsの講師として乗船しているEnidとCaroleだった。重悳とスミヱはともにラムのカレライスを食べた。夕食後のショーは地元Kerala州の伝統ダンスだった。ところがこれが娯楽ショーというより伝統文化遺産だった。能のような抽象的な所作が続き、席を立つ人も少なくなかった。伝統芸術を理解することは難しい。

March 26, 2002

    Shig's father posted a picture of the sunset in an album with a short Japanese poem meaning "Again today, the sun sets on the horizon of the Indian Ocean". Expressed there were awe to vastness of the Indian ocean and a little boredom. Father was a civilian in the pre-war Ministry of Navy in Japan and assigned in his late 30's to the Japanese Naval Office in London in late 1930's. That office was intended to gather information while ordering ships and equipment. He indeed brought to London dismantled cryptographic typewriter newly developed then. He crossed Suez Canal both ways. In the Indian Ocean, he must have passed where we are. His picture of the sunset was, of course, monochrome. Shig wants to take a picture of a scarlet sunset, but in vain so far, because we have not had an evening without clouds on the horizon. But we are cruising among the 360 degree horizon everyday, and we'll be successful before long.

    Shig attended 3 lectures today. The 4th was by an Indian celebrity. Shig attended in his first lecture but didn't understand a word of his English with Shig's limited proficiency. Ever since then Shig keeps away from his lectures. The first lecture today was about South Africa. Shig found the lecturer's explanation interesting that north-ward migration and development in South Africa was similar to west-ward migration in US. Sue and Shig attended the lecture about the influence of the British Empire in architectures by a Smithonian scholor, Dr. Valerie Fletcher. We found it interesting that the trends of architectures had a historical story. The third lecture for Shig was pre-caution for pick-pockets with actual video clips of the crime, by a magician. A couple of days ago, he performed a show of picking watches and purses from the audience, although we didn't see it. We heard later from a man that he was invited by the magician to a room and asked to co-operate, and that he exchanged his tie with what the magician brought. On the stage his tie was pulled longer and longer to reach the floor.

    In the "Informal" evening, we dined with the Smithonian scholor, Valerie and her sister Pam, and a staff Martin. Shig took stingray fish while Sue ate pasta.


 重悳は3つの講義を聞いた。もう一つの講義はインド人の大使の講義だったが、第1回を聞いて全然聞き取れなかったので以降敬遠している。そう2-3人の米人に話したら、いや第1回は我々も分からなかったが2回目から少しずつ分かるようになったとのことだった。今日の最初の講義は南アフリカだった。南アフリカにおける北方開拓の歴史が米国の西部開拓に似ているとの話が面白かった。重悳とスミヱはSmithonian研究員のDr. Valerie Fletcherの講義を聞いた。大英帝国が建物のArchitectureに及ぼした影響についてであった。建物の形状の動向が或る歴史的ストーリになっていることを興味深く理解した。重悳が聞いた3番目の講義は、手品師による掏りに対する注意だった。実際に掏る場面のビデオを多用した講義だった。実はこの手品師は、我々は見なかったのだが2-3日前に観客の時計や財布を抜き取る演技のショーをした人だ。上着を着たままシャツを抜き取ったそうだが、これは種ありと理解した。そうでもないとTopologyに反する。某氏から聞いたところでは別室に招かれて協力依頼され、ネクタイを手品師が用意したものに取り替えたら、舞台でそのネクタイがどんどん伸びて床に達したそうだ。


'02/ 3/26 Cochin    インド南部の港町Cochinは、歴史の時計が止まった町だった。

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